It’s Tvisha’s summer vacation, and due to work pressures, we could not take her out of Bangalore in April. So she was bugging us to get out of Bangalore. After comparing Leh/Ladakh, Sikkim, Andamans, and Kashmir, we finally settled on Kashmir. I had been to Kashmir when I was very young and had fond memories of the place. I was unsure whether it was safe to visit Kashmir, and after much online research and talking to the travel agents, we zeroed in on Kashmir.
Some friends were going on a Bangalore-Leh drive (9K+ Kms), and others were going to monasteries in Sikkim. We had recently been to monasteries in Bhutan, and the girls were not in the mood for another long drive! In December 2021, we enjoyed a seven-day long drive (Bangalore-Coonoor-Kotagiri-Coimbatore-Mahabalipuram-Bangalore). The weatherman predicted rains in Andamans, and the daughter wanted to make Olaf! So, Kashmir was inevitable!
After comparing rates and dates with our favorite travel agent (SOTC), we finally booked our trip with the MakeMyTrip holidays.
Day 1 – Bangalore to Srinagar
There is a direct Indigo Flight (6E 797) from Bangalore to Srinagar that starts in Bangalore at a convenient time (~9:15 AM) and reaches Srinagar post noon (~2:00 PM) with a brief halt at Amritsar.
When the plane landed at the Srinagar airport, all passengers were in awe of Srinagar’s beautiful hills (some capped with snow). At the airport, our driver greeted us, and he instantly realized that we South Indians were in Kashmir to see snow in summer! He promised us ample snow in Sonmarg and Gulmarg, making Tvisha very happy!
It was a short drive from the airport to our first hotel in Srinagar. It was not a classic hotel but a houseboat. The houseboat we stayed in was Naaz Kashmir (https://www.naazkashmir.com/) and was located in Nageen Lake (and not Dal Lake). All the lakes in Srinagar are connected, but Nageen Lake is less commercial and crowded.
The rest of the day was free for us to enjoy the houseboat! We spent our time taking photos, watching fishermen and birds catch fish, eating pakoras, listening to the music of the water and birds, listening to the prayers from different surrounding Mosques, dressing up in a traditional dress, and a short shikara ride.
It was an abrupt stop to the fast life we are used to, staring back at nature and adoring its beauty. We talked to each other as a family and were not immersed in our gadgets! However, Tvisha was excited to show off her first day in Kashmir to her friends in a WhatsApp call!
Naaz Kashmir served us well – candlelight dinners, food per our needs, and recommendations about Shikara rides. So we took their advice and decided to take the 4:30 AM four hours Shikara ride from Nageen Lake to Dal Lake.
Staying in a houseboat is like sharing a house with other equally clueless and excited families.
Day 2 – Srinagar (Shikara Ride)
We kept the alarm to wake us up at 4:00 AM to prepare for our 4:30 AM shikara ride. We woke up to the alarm and morning prayers at the lake. It reminded me of my pre-college days when 4:00 AM had become a routine for studies. The caretakers were already up and knocked on our doors to ensure that we were ready and sent us on the shikara with some hot Kashmiri tea (Kahwa) and snacks.
It was bitter cold (for us) and pleasant for the locals. We tugged ourselves into the blanket available in the shikara. Our little braveheart sandwiched herself conveniently between her parents, refused to step out of the blanket throughout the ride, enjoyed the frequent warm rubs, and did not hesitate to nap. The shikara moved slowly, confidently, and thoughtfully through the lake.
The cold air on the face and the calming sound of the shikara moving in the lake is an unforgettable experience. Most of the locals and birds were up at 4:30 AM!! As we rowed through the lake, we could see the homes of the locals – men and women at work. Everyone that met the eye returned a welcoming smile.
We spotted a water snake, various colored water lilies, and birds like eagles, geese, mallards, pochards, gadwalls, pintails, waders, coots, and the common teal. The shikara rider helped us identify the birds.
We could see water vapor causing fog in some places due to the difference in water temperatures and the surroundings.
The shikara rider explained to us in detail the unique farming done by the locals in the lake, i.e., the process in which they grow vegetables. These farmers grow carrots, radishes, turnips, and other vegetables in the soil that floats on flora beds.
Such floating gardens are maintained all over the lake, and the farmers move through their plots on boats carrying their harvest to the lake’s market area. The rider took us through the floating gardens and the lotus farms to the floating vegetable market on dal lake. We bought some flowers and seeds and had some hot Kahwa (Kashmiri Tea) and snacks packed for us by the Naaz Kashmir at this market.
The rider then took us to the dal lake (pronounced as दल and not दाल), and at this time of the day, it was empty except for the locals fishing out the water weeds to compost them for use in their farms. It was a beautiful sunrise to watch at the dal lake, wade through the markets (Meena Bazaar), and spot traditional homes. The ride back was slow, and the gentle swaying motion of the shikara ride put us to sleep for a few minutes.
Day 2 – Sonmarg (सोनमर्ग and not सोनमIर्ग)
At around 9:30 AM, after breakfast, we started driving to Sonmarg, a hill station in the Ganderbal district.
It was about two hours drive. The roads were not too good, and there were traffic jams in a few places. If we had left about an hour earlier, we might have saved about 1/2 hour of jam time. It was visitor traffic. However, after the early morning Shikara ride, we needed some time to fuel and freshen ourselves before our next adventure.
As we reached closer to Sonmarg, we could see the snow-capped mountains, feel the drop in temperature, and breathe the superior quality air. Sonmarg was much cooler than Srinagar but fortunately pleasant (even for our visitor skin).
During the drive, we could see streams of water – the tributaries of Jhelum – Lidder, Sind, and Neelum. The sight of white water forcing itself down the mountains was strangely peaceful. It reminded us of our stay in Salt Lake City, Utah.
The driver told us that during the winter months, heavy snowfall blocks NH-1. So a tunnel is being built to keep the road open year-round. We found trekkers ready to trek from Sonmarg to Leh (“the rooftop of the world”) and groups wanting to drive through the Zoji La pass. Our driver informed us that driving through the Zoji La pass is a must-do off-road adventure. However, he recommended we not take our city car and take a four-wheel drive as the roads are narrow and rocky. It seems it’s a trek worth doing! So, now this one is also added to the backlog!
However, our goal for today was relatively simple. We either trek or take ponies to the Thajiwas glacier. This glacier is a favorite summer destination at Sonmarg.
My daughter is always excited and happy around animals. We were not sure whether we (“The Adults”) needed ponies; however, the agents there convinced us that the pony ride is a “must-do” in Sonmarg. We gave in; however, it would have been a simple to moderate walk/trek and less burden on the animals in hindsight. The ponies were expensive, about 2750 INR / person (we negotiated out more than 50% of the original demand. Better negotiators got it at around 1500 INR / person). We also got a photographer for us to be more hands-free. The pony ride was uphill, downhill, and through cold water streams.
The scenery was picture perfect, a silvery scene set against green meadows and a clear blue sky. The views were captivating, and we outsourced the picture capture activity to our photographer and instead enjoyed the views. The air was too fresh to keep our masks on.
At the glacier, Tvisha finally made her Olaf! She was throwing snowballs at us in all directions, even when we were haggling with the locals to reduce the sledding costs! She was able to go up and down the snow and was soaking in the happiness, unlike us. Then, after an uphill trek in the snow, we sat down on a rock and came down sledding. The weather was not too cold, and if it were not for the time to return to Srinagar and limited food options, we would have spent more time up at the glacier.
We encountered the local police (to the surprise of the locals), who helped us reduce the cost of sledding from 3500/- to 500/- INR (though we ended up paying 1000 INR per person for sledding). It’s funny that the locals keep saying (क्या आप खुश है, हमे भी खुश कीजिये) “Are you happy? Make us happy!”, a method to get more money from the visitors. These people make money only during the summer months (visitor months) and try to make the most of it. COVID & CONFLICT closures have been hard on them. We found these people to be cheerful, happy, and helpful. So, we did not hesitate to give (tips) more than we thought was reasonable!
We stopped at a roadside restaurant to have some delicious chole-puri and dal-makhani for Tvisha on our way back. We reached back around 7:00 PM for another candlelight dinner at Naaz Kashmir. The owners of Naaz Kashmir had moved our luggage out of the room as they thought that we booked for only one night, and they realized that there was a communication issue between MakeMyTrip and their reservation team. They made up for it by giving us a superior room, a chocolate cake for Tvisha, and several apologies.
We took a warm bath and crashed soon after!
We were woken up by Tvisha mid-night as she started vomiting and was feeling very sick! She had no temperature but did not look well. We were not sure whether it was the altitude, change in food/water, or a stomach bug. Thankfully, we had carried medicines – “Enterogermina” and “Calpol” in our first aid kit!
Day 3 – Pahalgam
We started around 9:45 AM after thanking the caretakers for their service at Naaz Kashmir and completing the check-out formalities. Tvisha was sick and only managed to eat mangoes for breakfast. The drive to Pahalgam was long but on more convenient and motorable roads. We wanted to stop for Kahwa and visit apple farms, but Tvisha would only sleep in the car. So, we drove straight to our hotel, the Radisson Golf Resort.
The Pahalgam scenery was unique, with white water streams and a backdrop of pine trees and snow-capped mountains. The temperature was pleasant and leaning towards too cool.
All we could do on day-3 was check in and rest. Tvisha slept all afternoon and night. She was running a slight fever, so we consulted our family doctor, and she diagnosed her to have the stomach flu. So we requested the hotel to get us medicines (the medicine shop was ~2KMS far), and they helped us.
The trip managers advised us to visit Abu Valley, Betaab Valley, Chandanwari, and Baisaran valley (Mini-Switzerland). However, we had lost 1/2 a day and had to check out by 1:00 PM the next day (Day-4). So we decided that if Tvisha feels better on Day-4, we will do the Baisaran valley.
Pahalgam (First Village) gets its name from Hindi “पहला गांव” and Shiva devotees visit this place frequently in summer to pilgrimage to the Amarnath Cave for the Darshan of the only ice stalagmite Shiva Linga. The pilgrimage usually starts from Chandanwari but was closed due to road work during our travel.
Day 4 – Pahalgam
Tvisha woke up ready for her next adventure; however, I felt queasy in my stomach. It was my turn to fall sick. However, Dolo came to my rescue, and after an insignificant breakfast, we all jumped up on horses to visit the Baisaran valley. This trek is captivating, and it’s better to trek than take horses. However, a just recovered Tvisha and a queasy daddy were not in any state to trek. So, horses again!
Baisaran Valley is a hilltop green meadow dotted with dense pine forests and surrounded by snowcapped mountains. This famous offbeat tourist place is excellent for those wanting to spend a quiet time in the company of nature. It also serves as a campsite for trekkers going to Tulian Lake. Some of the famous tourist points you can see en route to Baisaran are Pahalgam Old Village, Kashmir Valley Point, and Deon Valley Point. You can also enjoy panoramic sights of Pahalgam town & Lidder Valley from here.
We returned to our hotel after about four hours (~1:00 PM) ride to Baisaran. We completed our checkout and had a delicious rainbow trout tandoori (a local delicacy) for lunch. The driver told us that butter or olive fry is better. After a sumptuous meal, we departed by car to Gulmarg.
Day 4 – Pahalgam to Gulmarg (गुलमर्ग )
It took about 3.5 hours from Pahalgam to reach Gulmarg. Gulmarg is a ski destination and is famous for winter sports. It is called the meadow of flowers in summers. Our driver informed us that they have to use chains on wheels in winter, and the snowfall in Gulmarg is heavy. The beauty of Gulmarg was different (in a good sense) than Pahalgam and Sonmarg. The first thing that strikes out is the lush green meadows (in summers).
We camped in the Hilltop Hotel. At first glance, the hotel seems jaded, faded, and under maintenance. While that is true, the rooms were well designed, and the in-room dining service was good. The service at this hotel was better than any of our previous experiences in Kashmir, even though they were ok at room cleaning services, breakfast variety, bathroom accessories, changing towels, or responding to your hails. We were satisfied that we could have a warm bath, eat something edible, and reach on time for the gondola ride the following day. The hotel is close to the gondola ride and ice skating rink.
Dolo carried me only this far, and I had slight chills and crashed for the night. I hoped, wished, and prayed that the fever would help kill the virus/bacteria (stomach bug) for me to enjoy Gulmarg the next day.
Day 5 – Gulmarg – Gondola Ride to Kongdoori
The chills were gone in the morning; however, I was still queasy. So, I trusted my best friend (Dolo) and braved the gondola.
MakeMyTrip was able to arrange gondola tickets for the first stage (Base Station to Kongdoori). The tour guide told us that the second stage tickets (Kongdoori to Apharwat) were unavailable (sold out). However, in hindsight, we did not regret not being able to do the second stage.
The gondola wait lines and wait times are infamous. People start queuing at 7:00 AM, even though the ride opens at 9:30 AM. We reached the queue at around 8:00 AM and found our tour guide. The people standing in the line entertained themselves by fighting with others who tried to move ahead. Words and punches were flying until the ride opened at 9:30 AM. The locals were also amused at the sight. The trip was about 10 minutes, and the wait time to board the ride was 2 hours. Dolo kept me on my feet.
The gondola ride is short, and the views are terrific. The valley is picturesque, and we can spot the snowcapped Himalayas, Apharwat, and Mud houses from the ride. We could also see the unlucky visitors (those who could not get a gondola ticket) trekking or using horses to climb up to Kongdoori. This trek is a moderate to challenging hike.
At Kongdoori, people had to queue again to ride to Apharwat, and the queue was equally long. We were happy that we don’t have to wait in another queue.
At Kongdoori, the horse owners were bugging us to take a horse ride to the waterfall. However, we discussed it with our tour guide and decided to trek. Trekking (and not horse riding) was the best decision. We could stop to look at the multi-colored flowers in the meadows, jump over streams, trek with the goats, stop to hear the sound of silence, spot lizards, take photos, and experience rocky trails.
When we reached the waterfall, we had to trek in snow to get up to the mouth of the waterfalls. The snow trek was challenging.
However, the mountain water was delicious and pure. We drank from the waterfall, and this water tasted better than any mineral or filtered water. So we filled a bottle to quench our thirst for the return journey.
If I travel again to destinations like these, I will remind myself to buy shoes with some grip.
Finally, we sledded downhill and relished on some delicious maggie cooked in the mountains waters. Strangely, maggie gave us the strength to trek back to the gondola ride station.
We took a different route to see the valley and meadows from a different perspective. This route was shorter and required us to climb uphill and roll downhill.
Again, the view was picture perfect!
After reaching the base station, we rushed to feed ourselves a late lunch. The lunch was good. We did not have any energy left to do the ATV rides and decided to skip them and relax in the room. Then, in the evening, we went down to the cafeteria to have some snacks. Our legs could not tolerate any more walking and would only walk back in the direction of the hotel room. So, we snuggled back into the room and watched the evening walkers from the comfort of the room.
Days are long in Gulmarg, and it’s bright even at 7:00 P.M.
I recovered from the stomach bug (Thanks! Enterogermina), and now it was time for my wife to fall sick to the same bug! She had a better immune reaction to the bug than my daughter or me; however, she sought help from Dolo and Enterogermina to fight off the bug.
Day 6 – Back to Srinagar
Gulmarg is about ~50Kms from Srinagar. So, the return journey was short. We woke up late and lazy, and left for Srinagar after a late breakfast.
We stopped to see apple farms and drink delicious green apple juice. We tasted various homemade pickles and bought lotus stem pickles from the farmer. Lotus stem (कमल-ककड़ी), locally known as “Nadru” is grown in shallow parts of water bodies like ponds and lakes and is a vastly enjoyed ingredient in Kashmiri cuisine.
We also stopped to have some premium Kahwa and buy some dry fruits (Walnuts) and condiments (Kesar).
We checked into Radisson Srinagar, the first hotel in Kashmir, where we found women employees. My wife had a heart-to-heart talk about women empowerment with the ladies there!
After a good lunch, we headed to see the oldest temple in Kashmir, the Shankaracharya Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple is a monument of national importance and is protected by ASI (Archeological Society of India). There are many steps to climb, and the view of Kashmir valley from the hilltop is superb. It was very windy up the hill and pleasant. Unfortunately, cameras were not allowed for a picture remembrance. After blessings from Lord Shiva, we decided to stroll the gardens of Srinagar.
Unfortunately, due to the holiday rush and this day being a Sunday (many locals were out sightseeing), we saw only the Botanical Garden and the Chashme Shahi. We missed the Tulips as the Tulip Garden was closed a few days back (Peak season: April). The botanical garden was a nice walk, and the flowers in Chashme Shahi were exquisite. My daughter enjoyed taking photos of several flowers.
We had earlier decided to ride the Shikara again at Dal Lake; however, we decided to dart back to the hotel, looking at the rush and weather. Finally, we finished the day with a lavish buffet dinner.
Day 7 – Back to Home @ Bangalore
The only eventful activity was the security checks at the Srinagar Airport. We must step out of our cars at least a kilometer before the airport and have to get ourselves, the car, and the bags checked.
We left Srinagar entirely mesmerized by the beauty of Kashmir, and I decided to pen this down in a blog (for us) so that this never fades from (our) memory. So this blog is my first travel blog.
After a few more doses of Enterogermina and home food, my wife got better. We have returned to our workaholic ways and keep discussing our Kashmir trip with friends and family.
Digital Journey 